13 May 2006

VIENTIANE
























Another weekend, another trip. Or so it feels at the moment anyway. We’re about to head into the wet season, and though it’ll be good to get away from the heat (regularly 37oC and 70% humidity) it’ll curtail travelling a bit.
Though just across the Mekong, Vientiane and Lao are light years from Thailand. One simple bridge breaks shopping malls, cinemas and Westernisation from low-rise buildings and pot-holes. Lao is well and truly developing, even its tiny capital is under-developed.
I wouldn’t say it’s pretty, though the plethora of palm trees throughout the town is refreshing, especially after cement-city Bangkok. There’s not a lot to do, but surprisingly access to Western food is actually easier in Lao as they’re not subject to the hugh tax rates faced in Thailand. The ham and cheese croissant I had was the best thing I’d tasted EVER, not having had decent bread or pastry since Christmas. And for the record, yours truly reigned supreme at the bowling alley – the only thing to do on a Friday night according to my friends who’re working in Vientiane. Vientiane’s slow, in a country town kind of way, so I went with the flow sleeping in late, strolling around and sitting in cafés.
Getting into Lao we got stuck at the border for 2 hours as the guy in the booth only knew how to type with one finger, and had to have a think between each letter. I guess that’s what you get when the pay level’s US$40 per month.


On the river is the new secretariat building for the Mekong River Commission – an inter-governmental institution to protect and develop the Mekong River region. It’s a massive institution, well funded and a key political agency in the region. It’s new head-quarters look like a five star hotel, a very responsible use of their resources I’m sure.


On the Sunday a friend and I went out to see a Rocket Festival. To inspire the gods to start the rainy season, the people build home made rockets and set them off. They used to do it in town until a school burnt down a few years ago, so now the festivals go on in the rice paddy. We were the only Farangs around and were much ogled by the children though we quickly lost our star status when the larger rockets came out. Everyone from young children to old women were setting of rockets of various stages. A procession brought the largest rockets out to the crowd, there was a bit of a sing, and then they were put aside until later in the evening. Most of the rockets went off, though not always straight, with only one exploding on the launch pad. Given then number of people, and children, with explosives I was surprised not to notice anyone missing fingers.

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