VIENTIANE

Another weekend, another trip. Or so it feels at the moment anyway. We’re about to head into the wet season, and though it’ll be good to get away from the heat (regularly 37oC and 70% humidity) it’ll curtail travelling a bit.

Though just across the Mekong, Vientiane and Lao are light years from Thailand. One simple bridge breaks shopping malls, cinemas and Westernisation from low-rise buildings and pot-holes. Lao is well and truly developing, even its tiny capital is under-developed.

I wouldn’t say it’s pretty, though the plethora of palm trees throughout the town is refreshing, especially after cement-city Bangkok. There’s not a lot to do, but surprisingly access to Western food is actually easier in Lao as they’re not subject to the hugh tax rates faced in Thailand. The ham and cheese croissant I had was the best thing I’d tasted EVER, not having had decent bread or pastry since Christmas. And for the record, yours truly reigned supreme at the bowling alley – the only thing to do on a Friday night according to my friends who’re working in Vientiane. Vientiane’s slow, in a country town kind of way, so I went with the flow sleeping in late, strolling around and sitting in cafés.

Getting into Lao we got stuck at the border for 2 hours as the guy in the booth only knew how to type with one finger, and had to have a think between each letter. I guess that’s what you get when the pay level’s US$40 per month.

On the river is the new secretariat building for the Mekong River Commission – an inter-governmental institution to protect and develop the Mekong River region. It’s a massive institution, well funded and a key political agency in the region. It’s new head-quarters look like a five star hotel, a very responsible use of their resources I’m sure.

On the Sunday a friend and I went out to see a Rocket Festival. To inspire the gods to start the rainy season, the people build home made rockets and set them off. They used to do it in town until a school burnt down a few years ago, so now the festivals go on in the rice paddy. We were the only Farangs around and were much ogled by the children though we quickly lost our star status when the larger rockets came out. Everyone from young children to old women were setting of rockets of various stages. A procession brought the largest rockets out to the crowd, there was a bit of a sing, and then they were put aside until later in the evening. Most of the rockets went off, though not always straight, with only one exploding on the launch pad. Given then number of people, and children, with explosives I was surprised not to notice anyone missing fingers.

SUKOTHAI

6 of us boarded a mini-bus to head to Thailand’s (other) ancient capital Sukothai this weekend. Yes, there are two dating from different periods, and different defeats. Sukothai was sacked by the Burmese, Ayuttaya by the Khmer (I think).

Sukothai looks a lot like Ayuttaya – ruined Wats – but is about 6 hours drive from Bangkok rather than 1.5 hours. I’m sure a Thai historian could provide an in depth analysis of the difference, other than location, but that’s about all I could spot. That said, it was good to get out of town and riding around the heritage parks on rented bicycles was certainly a welcome change.

The other two guys coming along, both former Russians (one’s now from Turkmenistan, the other Azerbaijan) turned up to the minivan drunk. At 7am. They opened their first beer as the van pulled out of the car park and stayed drunk for 48 hours on top of the 24 hours prior to the trip, not even seeing a temple. It was quite an effort really, the rest of us kept waiting for them to fall over. Or at least for the chief protagonist to stop talking and his offsider to stop giggling. It didn’t happen, and I think they had a good trip.

THAI BAR

After two failed attempts to find the Raintree Café, third time was a charm. I can’t say it was really my fault – it is down a side Soi. I probably should have seen the big blue sign hanging over the main street though.

Anyway, finally found it – and it’s great. In the 70’s, when Thailand was run by military dictatorship students rebelled musically creating a Thai folk-protest song fusing the Dylan tradition with Thai concepts and instruments. Basically protest songs that also proclaim how great it is to be Thai, even if the despots are in power. The movement was known as Phreng Phua Chiwit - ‘Songs For Life’. The bar is a carry over from that period, with SFL playing every night.

A good friend and I got there in time to see a 5 piece act playing. There bar’s fully wood lined, with any number of bullsheads hanging on the wall amongst other ‘memorabilia’ (ie junk). The place is dominated by Thai’s – drunk, smiling and enjoying the music – who’re not at all put-off, influenced or interested by a couple of Farangs hanging out in one of the booths. We rolled out at stumps, and I felt like I’d found a bar that I really fit into in Thailand.

Thai History from the 70’s: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_Thailand_since_1973

Phreng Phua Chiwit: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Music_of_Thailand#Pleng_phua_cheewit